A Taste of Virginia History: A Guide to Historic Eateries and Their Recipes (Taste of History Series)
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A bottle may be past its prime to one wine lover, but characterful to another. Let your taste buds guide you. Look for ruddy, brownish whites that may smell of Sherry or cider, or brick-orange reds that seem flat and lifeless. Oxidation is a common consumer complaint. It can begin during winemaking, storage or within hours of opening the bottle. Always ask your bartender which day he or she opened that by-the-glass pour. Packaging may also be the cause. Boxed wines have shorter shelf lives than bottles due to the high rate of oxygen exchange in the boxed bags.
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If a bottled wine is fresh off the shelf and still tastes oxidized, the problem probably started with the producer. In the case of Sherry, vin jaune and some white wines, those nutty flavors are deliberate. Oxidation presents itself in degrees of intensity, but if color, aroma and flavor loss are severe, consider making vinegar. Taste for roasted, stewed or jammy reds with prune or raisin flavors, or whites that are brown, nutty and Sherry-like, and not in a tasty way. Prolonged exposure to heat or a series of temperature spikes can cook a wine.
Also known as maderization, for the process used to make Madeira, few wines can tolerate the treatment. Cooked wines typically show signs of oxidation, too.
A cork partially dislodged from the neck is a good indicator that heat has expanded the air inside. This can happen anywhere: a hot dock during shipping, a sunny window in a store, a pizza restaurant that stores Chianti above the oven, or a car trunk in the summertime. Yet, despite its historical relevance, most wineries try to avoid Brettanomyces yeast in their wines.
The US chef Alice Waters offered a similar reframing at her restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, which is well-known for serving a lonely peach on an empty plate for dessert. L ast summer, I stopped by a white-frame house on a curving, shady lane by Lake Allatoona in Georgia. A stately apple tree stood out front. The owner had set out a roadside stand with baskets of fresh Granny Smith apples laid upon white towels. I took 10 scarred, unpolished, unshining, lopsided green apples and left a dollar. I ate them all in a single day and went back for 10 more. Those apples were like the famed wrinkle in time that lets you step instantly across light years.
I merged with my child self, tasting a tart and succulent fruit with indescribable base notes and top notes that I could never put into words. My apple. My childhood. My forgotten self. I am not a chef. I am not a curator of cuisines. I think we all do. For me, those ingredients constitute the canon, and the dishes of the time frame them. Purple straw wheat, for instance, was grown throughout the colonial South, and survived until the s. Why was it a survivor and why did it nearly die?
‘People of the Sturgeon’
Recently, it was boarded onto the global Ark of Taste, the register of the most endangered and historically important foods in the world, maintained by an organisation called Slow Food International. As long as the ingredient is saved. Each watermelon that grows will produce hundreds of seeds, as will its progeny.
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On 19 April , a popular antebellum cocktail was reborn: Brandy Smash, a mixture of Bradford watermelon molasses and watermelon brandy, syrup, water over crushed ice and an orange garnish. The feast honoured a freed slave named Nat Fuller, a celebrated Southern chef of the time. Fuller had hosted an interracial meal in to commemorate the end of the Civil War. The event was eventually lost to history, but Shields rediscovered Fuller in newspaper archives of the era, and his dinner honoured that important historical and culinary moment. The menu was true to the recipes of the time.
Become a Friend of Aeon to save articles and enjoy other exclusive benefits Make a donation. Melons and Morning Glories by Raphaelle Peale. Courtesy Smithsonian American Art Museum.
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Jill Neimark is an award-winning science journalist and author, and a contributing editor at Discover Magazine. Aeon for Friends Find out more. Food and drink Meaning and the good life Mood and emotion. Get Aeon straight to your inbox. Aeon is not-for-profit and free for everyone.
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Liquid smoke is a great product, but it definitely benefits from being added to liquids such as BBQ and braising liquids which can dilute the concentration of the flavor. The Ultimate Crab Cake .
Mix the ingredients together, seasoning to taste. Form the mixture into two eight ounce crab cakes. Place crab cakes on a preheated, oiled frying pan. Cook over medium heat on both sides until browned, approximately 5 to 10 minutes. Serve hot. Yield: 2 enormous servings. This is as basic as it gets.
Lump Crabmeat, Picked Over for Shells. In a small mixing bowl, combine the egg, butter and lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce and parsley. Mix until frothy. Sprinkle crabmeat with bread crumbs and pour the egg mixture over the top. Gently toss or fold the ingredients together, taking not to break up the lumps of crabmeat. Form the mixture into mounded rounds about 3 minutes in diameter and 1 inch thick. Do not pack the batter too firmly. The cakes should be a loose as possible, yet still hold their shape. Prepare the blackening seasoning and the reddened butter sauce.
Keep the sauce warm over low heat. Heat in a large cast iron skillet over high heat until smoking hot the hotter the better. Dip each cake in clarified butter and roll in the blackening seasoning. Cook for 2 — 3 minutes on each side. This process produces a lot of smoke, so put on the exhaust fan and open the windows or the smoke alarms will be wailing.
Minced Garlic. Juice of 1 Lemon. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Bring to a boil and reduce slightly. Whisk in the tomato paste and cream.